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Thread: Convert Your A/C System to Use an Alternative Refrigerant

  1. #11
    Devout Follower Of He Who Walks Behind The Rows NightFlyer's Avatar
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    BTW - my 'special tools' expenditure (manifold gauge set, vacuum pump, and side tapper) totaled $151.33

    http://www.dmctoday.com/showthread.p...ll=1#post13733

    IMHO, that's not prohibitively bad when you consider that tools are a long term investment.
    "Driving Concours - proving it's possible with every mile!"

    --Josh S.
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  2. #12
    Senior Member 2628's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by content22207 View Post
    Vacuum system. THIS IS SINGLE MOST IMPORTANT STEP. Moisture trapped in system (remember was flushed with outside air) WILL freeze. Freon evaporates at 22 degrees, well below freezing point of water. Will totally stop up low side. Can actually see moving rings of ice on hose as clogs form and melt. This process uses engine vacuum rather than a separate vacuum pump. Find suitable vacuum nipple on engine (preferred) or use vapor canister purge line as a vacuum source. (Good source is the vacuum connection on the bottom side of the left "ram's horn". Hard to see but easy to reach.) Start engine. Do not jump compressor. Attach R134 charging hose with barb adapter to vacuum source, then to low side quick connect. Let engine vacuum suck on system for 10 or 15 minutes. Remember to disconnect from low side Schrader valve BEFORE turning off engine.

    Bill Robertson
    #5939

    I am more of a visual kind of guy. I like pics.
    I halfway understand this.

  3. #13
    Senior Member 2628's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by NightFlyer View Post
    BTW - my 'special tools' expenditure (manifold gauge set, vacuum pump, and side tapper) totaled $151.33

    http://www.dmctoday.com/showthread.p...ll=1#post13733

    IMHO, that's not prohibitively bad when you consider that tools are a long term investment.
    No that isn't too bad !

  4. #14
    Devout Follower Of He Who Walks Behind The Rows NightFlyer's Avatar
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    Here's a video of the Bill/Steve R-134a conversion done to Brandon B's car, during which they used the engine to vacuum down the system:

    "Driving Concours - proving it's possible with every mile!"

    --Josh S.
    #1798

  5. #15
    Devout Follower Of He Who Walks Behind The Rows NightFlyer's Avatar
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    Essentially, you're just running a hose with a service port connector onto one of the intake runner vacuum taps/barbs. If you're K-Jet, you'd be best to use the passenger side intake runner vacuum tap/barb, as it only effects the HVAC controls and brake booster, which you won't need while just vacuuming down your system, whereas K-Jet depends upon the tap/barb on the driver's side runner for the WUR/CPR and vacuum advance on the electrical distributor.

    You'd just buy a long enough hose with a connector for your service ports, that has a core depressor in the connector fitting on at least one end, and cut the fitting off the other end, which you'd then hose clamp onto the passenger intake runner vacuum tap/barb.

    Start the engine, and it'll be vacuuming the system - easy

    If I were using the engine as my vacuum, I'd spend at least 20 minutes on each port (high and low side) at a minimum.
    "Driving Concours - proving it's possible with every mile!"

    --Josh S.
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  6. #16
    Senior Member 2628's Avatar
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    I have seen this video a few times. But on the Vacuum part when Bill is explaining?
    He sounds like Charlie Brown's Teacher!
    I think i know what barb you are talking about on the intake.

  7. #17
    Senior Member 2628's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by NightFlyer View Post
    Essentially, you're just running a hose with a service port connector onto one of the intake runner vacuum taps/barbs. If you're K-Jet, you'd be best to use the passenger side intake runner vacuum tap/barb, as it only effects the HVAC controls and brake booster, which you won't need while just vacuuming down your system, whereas K-Jet depends upon the tap/barb on the driver's side runner for the WUR/CPR and vacuum advance on the electrical distributor.

    You'd just buy a long enough hose with a connector for your service ports, that has a core depressor in the connector fitting on at least one end, and cut the fitting off the other end, which you'd then hose clamp onto the passenger intake runner vacuum tap/barb.

    Start the engine, and it'll be vacuuming the system - easy

    If I were using the engine as my vacuum, I'd spend at least 20 minutes on each port (high and low side) at a minimum.
    Excuse my ignorance here, But i must ask?
    So you are using the Engine to Vacuum the remaining Laquer Thinner and gunk out of the System?
    Where is all that mess going? Into your Intake and Engine???
    Is that not bad for the Intake/Engine??

    Again excuse my Ignorance on this.

  8. #18
    Devout Follower Of He Who Walks Behind The Rows NightFlyer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2628 View Post
    Excuse my ignorance here, But i must ask?
    So you are using the Engine to Vacuum the remaining Laquer Thinner and gunk out of the System?
    Where is all that mess going? Into your Intake and Engine???
    Is that not bad for the Intake/Engine??

    Again excuse my Ignorance on this.
    The vacuum isn't powerful enough to pull solids from the system, and even if it was, the schrader cores wouldn't allow anything very big to pass through. The vacuum also isn't powerful enough to pull the oil out of the system.

    The purpose of the vacuum is to lower the pressure in the system enough to convert any water or any other lightweight liquids that may be in the system into a gaseous vapor, and then suck them out, in addition to sucking the ambient air out of the system. Thus you will be sucking vaporized flushing agent and water into the intake manifold of the engine, but as the engine is little more than a giant vacuum/air pump, all that fluid is going to remain in its gaseous state up to the combustion process, where it will be combusted (if combustible) and/or expelled with the exhaust from the combustion of gasoline.

    It's also not so much so as to overwhelm the engine or even alter the running performance of the engine any (as seen in the Brandon B video). The flushing agent is a petroleum based product, thus the engine won't mind burning it in the least (not much different than carb/throttle body cleaner). And any water vapor that's going to be sucked in would be no different than that which gets sucked into the system with the intake air on a high humidity day or while it's raining.

    In other words - nothing to worry about
    "Driving Concours - proving it's possible with every mile!"

    --Josh S.
    #1798

  9. #19
    Senior Member 2628's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by NightFlyer View Post
    .

    In other words - nothing to worry about
    Ahhhh! Ok. I learn something new everyday!
    Got it ! Thanks

  10. #20
    Devout Follower Of He Who Walks Behind The Rows NightFlyer's Avatar
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    BTW - Bill also uses a coupling barb to tap into the existing vacuum purge hose for the evaporative control system (line that runs from the charcoal canister (inside the driver's side pontoon) to the throttle edge tapping). As it's already spliced and coupled from the factory, you'd simply unplug the hose from the factory coupling and hose clamp your coupling barb'd A/C hose onto it.

    To do this though, you have to 1) be certain that the vacuum hose is actually connected to the throttle edge tapping and is actually drawing vacuum (test it by pulling it apart when the engine is running and holding your finger over the decoupled hose end/outlet), and 2) have the proper size coupling barb to join the existing factory hose together with your A/C hose.

    For more on the vacuum systems and their hose routing, see my resources post on that very subject

    http://www.dmctoday.com/showthread.p...ock-OEM-Engine
    "Driving Concours - proving it's possible with every mile!"

    --Josh S.
    #1798

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