BTW - my 'special tools' expenditure (manifold gauge set, vacuum pump, and side tapper) totaled $151.33
http://www.dmctoday.com/showthread.p...ll=1#post13733
IMHO, that's not prohibitively bad when you consider that tools are a long term investment.
BTW - my 'special tools' expenditure (manifold gauge set, vacuum pump, and side tapper) totaled $151.33
http://www.dmctoday.com/showthread.p...ll=1#post13733
IMHO, that's not prohibitively bad when you consider that tools are a long term investment.
"You can never use too much anti-seize!"
--Josh S.
#1798
Originally Posted by content22207
I am more of a visual kind of guy. I like pics.
I halfway understand this.
No that isn't too bad !BTW - my 'special tools' expenditure (manifold gauge set, vacuum pump, and side tapper) totaled $151.33
http://www.dmctoday.com/showthread.p...ll=1#post13733
IMHO, that's not prohibitively bad when you consider that tools are a long term investment.
Here's a video of the Bill/Steve R-134a conversion done to Brandon B's car, during which they used the engine to vacuum down the system:
"You can never use too much anti-seize!"
--Josh S.
#1798
Essentially, you're just running a hose with a service port connector onto one of the intake runner vacuum taps/barbs. If you're K-Jet, you'd be best to use the passenger side intake runner vacuum tap/barb, as it only effects the HVAC controls and brake booster, which you won't need while just vacuuming down your system, whereas K-Jet depends upon the tap/barb on the driver's side runner for the WUR/CPR and vacuum advance on the electrical distributor.
You'd just buy a long enough hose with a connector for your service ports, that has a core depressor in the connector fitting on at least one end, and cut the fitting off the other end, which you'd then hose clamp onto the passenger intake runner vacuum tap/barb.
Start the engine, and it'll be vacuuming the system - easy
If I were using the engine as my vacuum, I'd spend at least 20 minutes on each port (high and low side) at a minimum.
"You can never use too much anti-seize!"
--Josh S.
#1798
I have seen this video a few times. But on the Vacuum part when Bill is explaining?
He sounds like Charlie Brown's Teacher!
I think i know what barb you are talking about on the intake.
Excuse my ignorance here, But i must ask?Essentially, you're just running a hose with a service port connector onto one of the intake runner vacuum taps/barbs. If you're K-Jet, you'd be best to use the passenger side intake runner vacuum tap/barb, as it only effects the HVAC controls and brake booster, which you won't need while just vacuuming down your system, whereas K-Jet depends upon the tap/barb on the driver's side runner for the WUR/CPR and vacuum advance on the electrical distributor.
You'd just buy a long enough hose with a connector for your service ports, that has a core depressor in the connector fitting on at least one end, and cut the fitting off the other end, which you'd then hose clamp onto the passenger intake runner vacuum tap/barb.
Start the engine, and it'll be vacuuming the system - easy
If I were using the engine as my vacuum, I'd spend at least 20 minutes on each port (high and low side) at a minimum.
So you are using the Engine to Vacuum the remaining Laquer Thinner and gunk out of the System?
Where is all that mess going? Into your Intake and Engine???
Is that not bad for the Intake/Engine??
Again excuse my Ignorance on this.
The vacuum isn't powerful enough to pull solids from the system, and even if it was, the schrader cores wouldn't allow anything very big to pass through. The vacuum also isn't powerful enough to pull the oil out of the system.
The purpose of the vacuum is to lower the pressure in the system enough to convert any water or any other lightweight liquids that may be in the system into a gaseous vapor, and then suck them out, in addition to sucking the ambient air out of the system. Thus you will be sucking vaporized flushing agent and water into the intake manifold of the engine, but as the engine is little more than a giant vacuum/air pump, all that fluid is going to remain in its gaseous state up to the combustion process, where it will be combusted (if combustible) and/or expelled with the exhaust from the combustion of gasoline.
It's also not so much so as to overwhelm the engine or even alter the running performance of the engine any (as seen in the Brandon B video). The flushing agent is a petroleum based product, thus the engine won't mind burning it in the least (not much different than carb/throttle body cleaner). And any water vapor that's going to be sucked in would be no different than that which gets sucked into the system with the intake air on a high humidity day or while it's raining.
In other words - nothing to worry about
"You can never use too much anti-seize!"
--Josh S.
#1798
Ahhhh! Ok. I learn something new everyday!.
In other words - nothing to worry about
Got it ! Thanks
BTW - Bill also uses a coupling barb to tap into the existing vacuum purge hose for the evaporative control system (line that runs from the charcoal canister (inside the driver's side pontoon) to the throttle edge tapping). As it's already spliced and coupled from the factory, you'd simply unplug the hose from the factory coupling and hose clamp your coupling barb'd A/C hose onto it.
To do this though, you have to 1) be certain that the vacuum hose is actually connected to the throttle edge tapping and is actually drawing vacuum (test it by pulling it apart when the engine is running and holding your finger over the decoupled hose end/outlet), and 2) have the proper size coupling barb to join the existing factory hose together with your A/C hose.
For more on the vacuum systems and their hose routing, see my resources post on that very subject
http://www.dmctoday.com/showthread.p...ock-OEM-Engine
"You can never use too much anti-seize!"
--Josh S.
#1798
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