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Thread: Change Transaxle Output Shaft Lip Seals

  1. #11
    Devout Follower Of He Who Walks Behind The Rows NightFlyer's Avatar
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    AWESOME!

    Thanks for the input Luke
    "Driving Concours - proving it's possible with every mile!"

    --Josh S.
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  2. #12
    Devout Follower Of He Who Walks Behind The Rows NightFlyer's Avatar
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    "Driving Concours - proving it's possible with every mile!"

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    Thank you NightFlyer. I am about to tackle this job and your post will be very helpful

    Cheers

    OZ DMC

  4. #14
    Devout Follower Of He Who Walks Behind The Rows NightFlyer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by OZ DMC View Post
    Thank you NightFlyer. I am about to tackle this job and your post will be very helpful

    Cheers

    OZ DMC
    Welcome to the forum - LOVE the land 'down under'

    It's why we're here and I hope that it actually does provide you with some assistance
    "Driving Concours - proving it's possible with every mile!"

    --Josh S.
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  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by NightFlyer View Post
    OK guys, as I just recently tackled this job on the driver's side of my 5-speed manual car, I thought I'd put up a step-by-step how to for the forum

    As many of you know, the stock/OEM lip seals had a single lip and were comprised of an outer layer of felt over a rubber/plastic composite with a spring (for shape retention) held together by an aluminum cap. The felt would pick-up and retain outside moisture which would lead to rusting/pitting of the housing and flange, eventually producing final drive oil leaks such as this:

    Attachment 1847Attachment 1848Attachment 1849

    So, let's get on to it with our parts list:

    The new preferred seals for this application have a double lip and are composed of solid nitrile (buna-n) rubber with a spring (for shape retention). Your DMC vendor of choice should offer this new style double lipped seal. I purchased mine from DMCMW at a cost of $29.95/ea (less my BRP discount). And I actually ended up wrecking one while trying to install it. Not wanting to shell out another $30 plus shipping, I was able to source an alternative product from Ultimate Industrial Solutions (UIS). Here are the links for the UIS seals which will work for this application:



    Double Lip w/ Stainless Spring $6.82/ea

    http://www.ultimateindustrial.com/do...inless-spring/

    Double Lip w/ Regular Spring $4.82/ea

    http://www.ultimateindustrial.com/me...mm-double-lip/

    Single Lip w/ Regular Spring $4.16/ea

    http://www.ultimateindustrial.com/me...mm-single-lip/

    Shipping on a single item is only $2.50. I personally bought two of the double lips with the stainless springs and my total on the order, including shipping, was only $16.68. AWESOME!

    Anyway, if you're going through the trouble of doing this job, then you may as well do it right, which means also ordering some stainless steel flange sleeves and the o-rings that ride the output shafts, PN 103120. DMCMW charges $41/ea for the sleeves and $3.23/ea for the o-rings.

    The only other things you'll need to complete this job is replacement gearbox/transaxle oil and some anti-seize. While there's a lot of debate over what oil is best, I ended up going with basic Lucas 80W90. Unless you want to deal with potential future leaks, then I highly recommend staying away from the synthetics, as in addition to costing more, they really don't provide any additional benefits. Whatever oil you decide to buy, make sure it's GL-5 compliant and that you buy enough to completely refill the gearbox/transaxle - system capacity is .97 US Gal / 3.7 Litres.





    While the following items aren't necessary, they are highly recommended: automotive grease of some sort and anaerobic sealant/gasket maker.





    Here's a summation of the parts/supplies needed:

    - New Seal(s) (double lip is strongly recommended) (x2 if you're going to do both sides) $6.82/ea + s/h

    - New O-Ring(s), PN 103120 (x2 if you're going to do both sides) $3.23/ea + s/h

    - Stainless Steel Flange Sleeves (x2 if you're going to do both sides) $41.00/ea + s/h

    - Anti-Seize Lubricant $3.79 + tax (at your local auto part retailer)

    - Automotive Grease (any kind will do) $2.99 + tax (at your local auto parts retailer)

    - Anaerobic Sealant/Gasket Maker $5.99 + tax (at your local auto parts retailer)
    Two things to add here. First I tried placing and order with UIS to see what they are selling as the price seemed too good to be true. Turns out it was as their shopping cart won't let you check out and I was finally informed the site will be going down in a few days as they are out of business.

    On a brighter note I have been machining axle flanges for years and installing a heavier stainless sleeve that is impervious to the deformation that the aftermarket sleeve is prone to. I will try to put it up on the website soon for anyone who is interested.
    Rob

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    Thanks for the great writeup, Nightflyer! just did this on the driver-side of my car and it was surprisingly a breeze. hardest part was removing the old seal. Replaced the seal & old, rusty axle flange with a new seal & machined flange from PJGrady.

    2015-09-13 13.17.04.jpg 2015-09-13 13.17.29.jpg 2015-09-13 13.46.21.jpg

    Rob, I should have the old flange in the mail back on its way to you in a day or so.

  7. #17
    Back before you were born, novadmc, Rob Grady sold solid stainless steel axle flanges. Those were the days.

  8. #18
    My drivers side also has that drip after I drive it. It's done that since I've owned the car. Guess I should do the seal replacement since you guys have shown it not to be that hard to do.
    Dave M vin 03572
    http://dm-eng.weebly.com/

  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by MattDavid View Post
    Back before you were born, novadmc, Rob Grady sold solid stainless steel axle flanges. Those were the days.
    Actually Matt these are the same ones I've always sold and I'd guess it's been about 15 years. Novadmc must be older than that...especially if he named himself after the Chevy Nova but I don't know about that? They've always been a machined stock flange with an extra heavy stainless sleeve to eliminate any chance of distortion which is the "Achilles heel" of press-on flanges. I'm not sure where the "solid stainless" rumor started but I've heard it before. Urban legends die hard I suppose?
    Rob
    Rob

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by novadmc View Post
    Thanks for the great writeup, Nightflyer! just did this on the driver-side of my car and it was surprisingly a breeze. hardest part was removing the old seal. Replaced the seal & old, rusty axle flange with a new seal & machined flange from PJGrady.

    2015-09-13 13.17.04.jpg 2015-09-13 13.17.29.jpg 2015-09-13 13.46.21.jpg

    Rob, I should have the old flange in the mail back on its way to you in a day or so.
    Make sure you pack the seal lip channel with wheel bearing grease. Thanx for the nice pic as it looks almost pretty sitting next to the old one!
    Rob

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