OK guys, as I just recently tackled this job on the driver's side of my 5-speed manual car, I thought I'd put up a step-by-step how to for the forum
As many of you know, the stock/OEM lip seals had a single lip and were comprised of an outer layer of felt over a rubber/plastic composite with a spring (for shape retention) held together by an aluminum cap. The felt would pick-up and retain outside moisture which would lead to rusting/pitting of the housing and flange, eventually producing final drive oil leaks such as this:
Attachment 1847Attachment 1848Attachment 1849
So, let's get on to it with our parts list:
The new preferred seals for this application have a double lip and are composed of solid nitrile (buna-n) rubber with a spring (for shape retention). Your DMC vendor of choice should offer this new style double lipped seal. I purchased mine from DMCMW at a cost of $29.95/ea (less my BRP discount). And I actually ended up wrecking one while trying to install it.

Not wanting to shell out another $30 plus shipping, I was able to source an alternative product from Ultimate Industrial Solutions (UIS). Here are the links for the UIS seals which will work for this application:
Double Lip w/ Stainless Spring $6.82/ea
http://www.ultimateindustrial.com/do...inless-spring/
Double Lip w/ Regular Spring $4.82/ea
http://www.ultimateindustrial.com/me...mm-double-lip/
Single Lip w/ Regular Spring $4.16/ea
http://www.ultimateindustrial.com/me...mm-single-lip/
Shipping on a single item is only $2.50. I personally bought two of the double lips with the stainless springs and my total on the order, including shipping, was only $16.68. AWESOME!
Anyway, if you're going through the trouble of doing this job, then you may as well do it right, which means also ordering some stainless steel flange sleeves and the o-rings that ride the output shafts, PN 103120. DMCMW charges $41/ea for the sleeves and $3.23/ea for the o-rings.
The only other things you'll need to complete this job is replacement gearbox/transaxle oil and some anti-seize. While there's a lot of debate over what oil is best, I ended up going with basic Lucas 80W90. Unless you want to deal with potential future leaks, then I highly recommend staying away from the synthetics, as in addition to costing more, they really don't provide any additional benefits. Whatever oil you decide to buy, make sure it's GL-5 compliant and that you buy enough to completely refill the gearbox/transaxle - system capacity is .97 US Gal / 3.7 Litres.
While the following items aren't necessary, they are highly recommended: automotive grease of some sort and anaerobic sealant/gasket maker.
Here's a summation of the parts/supplies needed:
- New Seal(s) (double lip is strongly recommended) (x2 if you're going to do both sides) $6.82/ea + s/h
- New O-Ring(s), PN 103120 (x2 if you're going to do both sides) $3.23/ea + s/h
- Stainless Steel Flange Sleeves (x2 if you're going to do both sides) $41.00/ea + s/h
- Anti-Seize Lubricant $3.79 + tax (at your local auto part retailer)
- Automotive Grease (any kind will do) $2.99 + tax (at your local auto parts retailer)
- Anaerobic Sealant/Gasket Maker $5.99 + tax (at your local auto parts retailer)