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Thread: BTTF conversion owners

  1. #111
    Devout Follower Of He Who Walks Behind The Rows NightFlyer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Drewlorean View Post
    Question:
    Would red Loctite (the kind made for threaded metal) work better or just as well as JB Weld?
    Good question.

    In this application, you're bonding aluminum (service port connector) and what I'd assume to be brass (the R-134a adapter). Both bonding products are a form of epoxy. The biggest difference is that the JB Weld has the suspended steel/iron particles in the solution.

    Personally, I think that either would work sufficiently for your purposes, so go with whatever you currently have readily available to you.

    Best luck
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  2. #112
    I ended up red-loctiting the fitting on. Seems to be holding up fine, as my system retains pressure and blows cold. I'm still getting the weird sporadic clicking, though. Anyone know which relay turns the compressor on and off? I also suspect that my low pressure switch is either loose or bad.

  3. #113
    Devout Follower Of He Who Walks Behind The Rows NightFlyer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Drewlorean View Post
    I ended up red-loctiting the fitting on. Seems to be holding up fine, as my system retains pressure and blows cold. I'm still getting the weird sporadic clicking, though. Anyone know which relay turns the compressor on and off? I also suspect that my low pressure switch is either loose or bad.
    The compressor isn't triggered via a relay, but rather directly via current passed from the low pressure switch.

    It's possible that the clicking you're hearing is the LPS. Check to make sure that the contacts are clean (on both the switch and the plug) and that the wires to/from the plug haven't been compromised in any way.

    Best luck

    BTW - If your A/C isn't getting as cold as you think it should when in Max on the mode switch, check the heater control valve and makes sure it's functioning properly. If not, you can replace with AutoZone Everco #74612.
    "Driving Concours - proving it's possible with every mile!"

    --Josh S.
    #1798

  4. #114
    Ahh thanks for the info!

  5. #115
    Question:
    Can r134 eat away the rubber seal inside of the low-side plastic cap?

    Mine is totally gone, and the system no longer has pressure. I think the "plunger" doesn't fully close, allowing a tiny bit of freon to escape.

    I have the worst luck with AC. I don't remember how many times I've recharged the system.

  6. #116
    Consider this a warning Michael's Avatar
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    The seals in the cap ideally would never be in contact with any freon. If they are then the schrader valve was probably leaking.

    I have heard the "primary seal" for a schrader valve is the plastic cap, but I don't buy it. If you are out, the best place to start is vacuum, test to see if it holds vacuum and if so, replace the drier and recharge with freon, oil, and dye and make sure all the pressures look Ok and everything is working then inspect after a few days of running the AC.

    Edit, got my refridigerants mixed up...just realized you are running 134 and I don't think R-134 uses schrader valves do they?




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  7. #117
    Uncensored Hypocrite stevedmc's Avatar
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    Nah, not shader on the adapters but it's still a valve.

    Is drew using the NAPA adapters or the Walmart garbage? I Think I Remember DRWW Saying SOMETHINY About YHE Threads Being messed up on one of his hoses. Maybe that's the leak.

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  8. #118
    I have the NAPA adapters. They're loctited onto the hoses.

    Just tried pulling vacuum but it's not holding pressure. I unscrewed the little "plunger" valve and it looked boogered up, so I installed a new one. Pulling vacuum again to see if it makes a difference.

    A friend wants me to make a Delorean appearance at their art show tomorrow evening in Baton Rouge. Hopefully I can get the AC back up and running in time. It's getting hot outside.

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