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Thread: Fixing 2808

  1. #21
    Devout Follower Of He Who Walks Behind The Rows NightFlyer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ChuckD View Post
    One other thing, where can I get the clip that holds in the wheel bearing? I need to replace the old one and I was going to get it of DMC Texas's site, <rant on> I don't mind forking over 6 bucks for the clip, I do however mind paying them 15 dollars shipping for something that weighs less than half a pound, I'm sorry but thats complete shit to charge that when it can slide in the mail <rant off>
    You can get those snap clips just about anywhere. From the looks of the image on Houston's site, it's a 2.5" OD. A lot of places (hardware stores) sell multi-size packs of them.
    "You can never use too much anti-seize!"

    --Josh S.
    #1798

  2. #22
    Senior Member
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    Well the ring problem was solved rather easily, I ordered a rotor and wheel bearing from Hervey and the wheel bearing came with a new clip! Now I just need my shipment from POR to come in so I can finish this stuff off.

  3. #23
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    So I went ahead and started assembling the LCA. I used my press and pressed in the lower ball joint (Thanks to Matt for selling me a great set!) and saw that it has a snap ring as well that goes on a groove on the ball joint right above where the metal for the control arm is? Whats the trick to that thing? I just cant seem to get it seated, any thoughts?

  4. #24
    Quote Originally Posted by ChuckD View Post
    any thoughts?
    Buy a set of Byrne's LCA's. His ball joint pad is 1/2" thick alloy steel -- no snap ring necessary.

    BTW: Byrne's LCA's can use Houston ball joints if you want -- size is identical:

    BallJointComparison.jpg

    Only difference is the they sit in the pad. OEM LCA's are so pitiful that without that snap ring the ball joint just falls out. Dave Swingle says no big deal because the ball joint is captive by the spring pressing the arm into the bottom lip (ball joint can't fall out of the arm as long as the suspension is assembled), but surely such a loose fit contributes to woggley steering.

    Bill Robertson
    #5939

  5. #25
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    All right so the snap ring is kind of on there, I was able to get half of the ring in the groove of the ball joint but there doesnt seem to be a way to get the whole ring in the groove. Attached are some pics of what I have so far.the red circles are where the snap ring is in the ball joint groove, yellow circle is where it is not.ball joint 1.jpgball joint 2.jpg

  6. #26
    Sounds like your ball joint isn't seated square. Try using your ball joint press again with the receiver pressing on the snap ring (You may need to rig up a receiver from a piece of pipe to press on the snap ring).

    Bill Robertson
    #5939

  7. #27
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    I will try that, the odd thing is the snap ring seems larger than the groove it is supposed to go in.

  8. #28
    Take the ball joint out and test fit the ring in it. If your LCA's are like most, it should be removable by hand (looks like you repainted your arms -- most of the resistance you felt when seating the ball joint could have been paint, not metal). Paint could also be what's preventing your ball joint from seating all the way -- I'd scrape the mating surface off then repaint everything as a unit once the ball joint is in place (I painted my Heninger control arms that way -- with the ball joint already pressed in).

    Bill Robertson
    #5939

  9. #29
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    Time to knock the dust off of this. I have been working on all these parts, got most of them put back together. Does anyone have the torque numbers for the rotor to the assembly hub? I wanna make sure it's right before I toss it back on the car.

  10. #30
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    Anyone know what size socket is needed for the spindle nut? I could have sworn I used a 1 1/4 socket to get the old one of, it doesnt fit the new one I got from DMC, is it 1 1/2?

    Here is a pic for clarification:nut.jpg
    Last edited by ChuckD; 01-14-2015 at 01:55 PM.

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