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Thread: Valve Adjustment and Being 'On The Rock'

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by content22207 View Post
    Valve is at least loaded, and perhaps open to some degree, when you can't put a feeler gauge between the stem and rocker arm.

    Your procedure is correct -- terminology is wrong.

    I thought that is what Ron was complaining about -- not the few extra seconds it takes to verify with a feeler gauge.

    Bill Robertson
    #5939
    FWIW- Depending on the grind, both can be open.

    I wasn't complaining, nor interested in debating...especially when we both know the other knows what is going on.
    That is why I only posted "oops"...so Steve could consider rewording it for clarity. Oh, well...

  2. #22
    Since everyone is so concerned about saving labor during a valve adjustment:

    May I humbly point out that by relocating his muffler Steve does not have to push his car all over the garage to position his valves -- he simply rotates the engine with a socket wrench like a normal car.

    Bill Robertson
    #5939

  3. #23
    Uncensored Hypocrite stevedmc's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by content22207 View Post
    How hard is it to try to poke a feeler gauge (that you're already holding in your hand, thank you very much) between a valve stem and the rocker arm?
    Thats how I did it. Frankly, my eyes are starting to go bad and there is no way I could figure that out with my own eyes. It only takes a second to see if a feeler gauge will slide in there or not. I think I showed that in the video.

    Sorry if my terminology wasn't correct. I catch myself all the time saying the wrong words. I'm a product of the Louisiana public school system. I know how to drive but I don't know how to read or write.
    Rest assured, we have a backup of Farrar's car blog and it will be restored in the near future. (Steve Rice - March 2016)
    Rest assured, we have a backup of Shep's posts and all of them will be restored in the near future. (Steve Rice - March 2017)

  4. #24
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    Bill Robertson
    #5939[/QUOTE]Longer than to look, and no more accurate....might as well degree the pulley and do it right, if you were going to get that anal about it, no?

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by stevedmc View Post
    Thats how I did it. Frankly, my eyes are starting to go bad and there is no way I could figure that out with my own eyes. It only takes a second to see if a feeler gauge will slide in there or not. I think I showed that in the video.

    Sorry if my terminology wasn't correct. I catch myself all the time saying the wrong words. I'm a product of the Louisiana public school system. I know how to drive but I don't know how to read or write.
    Last post-
    It's all good. All on the rock means is the exhaust valve is about to open and the intake is about to close (or there abouts' depending on the grind -- not always both closed as some think. Sometimes both are open. AKA overlap)...one valve will move no matter which way you turn the crank...they are on the rock.

  6. #26
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    Under which condition should I be adjusting valves: using the TDC timing mark on my crank (ya that's right...my crank!) Or, eyeballing the on the rock position?

    Thanks!

    P3210224.jpg P3210226.jpg P3210227.jpg P3210228.jpg

    ***Edit:

    After turning the crank a few times I have this @cylinder 5:

    P3210225.jpg

    The valves I should be able to adjust seem to be in the right position now too. I'm also have an installer bit to put in cylinder 1.
    Last edited by Rich_NYS; 03-21-2015 at 03:17 PM.

  7. #27
    If you can turn the engine easy with your wrench;

    Just turn it until the intake valve has just closed, then turn another 1/4 turn. That puts that cylinder in the middle of the compression stroke so both valves are fully closed.

    You have to do each cylinder that way so it's a lot more rotating the crank but you never need any books to check which cylinders to do.
    Dave M vin 03572
    http://dm-eng.weebly.com/

  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bitsyncmaster View Post
    If you can turn the engine easy with your wrench;

    Just turn it until the intake valve has just closed, then turn another 1/4 turn. That puts that cylinder in the middle of the compression stroke so both valves are fully closed.

    You have to do each cylinder that way so it's a lot more rotating the crank but you never need any books to check which cylinders to do.
    Good tip...thanks!

    (So far, so good.)

  9. #29
    I've used the book procedure successfully, But I think the next time I do it. I'll simply follow the TDC firing order starting at Cyl 1 ea cylinder at a time rather than jumping around too this valve or that valve.

    So, I have to rotate the engine 2 times, not a big deal.
    DENNIS

  10. #30
    Member Trstno1's Avatar
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    Quick question....

    I know this is an old post, but ill try anyway.....

    I am prepping for a valve adjustment. I have watched Steve's video but had a question.

    I am looking to purchase the correct feeler gauges and looked up in the workshop manual to see what the inlet and exhaust valve clearances were. Looks like the inlet is .10mm - .15mm. and the exhaust is .25mm - .30mm. So, which size feeler gauge should I be using when doing the valve adjustment?

    Also, when the valve adjustment is done do I just replace the valve cover gasket and torque it down or do I need to add any permatex "the right stuff" to both sides of the new gasket first?
    You can't buy happiness, but you can buy a DeLorean and that's sort of the same thing....

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