All future carb conversions will get mechanical fuel pumps. Rumor that mechanical fuel pumps are NLA is untrue Ė Iíve got half a dozen on the shelf right now, and another half dozen in transit.
Please disregard the outlet hose barbs Ė future carb conversions will also get metal fuel lines in the engine compartment, using traditional Ford fuel filters screwed into the front of the carburetor (thatís Louis Duetís old carburetor BTW, which works just fineÖ). I will replace the outlet hose barbs with flare fittings Ė just havenít had a chance due to activity below. A short piece of hose will still connect the pump to the frame line of course Ė thatís industry standard (engine moves independently of the frame).
Tank mounted fuel pump will be replaced with a straight pickup tube (welded aluminum). Tank baffles will be aluminum as well (already bought them Ė just havenít had a chance to drill little holes at the bottom yet so I posed the pumps with old Tuna Fish baffles). Replaceable 300 micron pickup screen at the bottom is the same.
As stated, Iíve been busy swapping 2.8 lower engine castings onto 3.0ís. Nothing new there, but what is new is Iíve swapped camshafts as well. Turns out they also are interchangeable (lobes point in the same direction Ė minor variations in lift and duration: 2.8 are slightly higher and shorter). Effect should be roughly equivalent to putting a pair of Bengston or Steger cams in a 2.8, although 3.0 valves are slightly larger so it could be a wash. Irrespective, now that I have camshafts with a distributor drive gear and a mechanical fuel pump lobe, all that remains to make plug & play 3.0 conversions is couple of jigs to hold the bits straight & true while drilling out the 3.0 heads.
PRV distributor gear test fitted on a common as dirt ($10 cap & rotor at any part house) American even fire distributor. This is a junkyard distributor I picked up for testing purposes Ė 3.0 conversions themselves will of course get new units.
A lot of owners donít realize there is a threaded hole for a traditional distributor clamp under the K-Jet distributor. My car uses it:
2.8 intake manifold adapted to fit on 3.0 heads. Historical curiosity: this is intake manifold #1, circa 1988.
I am still painting Farrarís engine cradle, so it will be another week or two before his new engine gets installed. Still waiting for bits to arrive to drill out the heads anyway. Camshafts and lower engine casting have already been swapped.
Farrar is going to get a welded stainless exhaust system Ė there really isnít enough room for his 2 1/4Ē flex tubing with all the automatic transmission peripherals (2Ē might work, but not 2 1/4Ē Ė not enough bend radius). I will use his flex tubing temporarily to test run the engine with the mufflers laying on the ground.
Speaking of which: anybody who tries to drill out a snapped off exhaust stud from underneath the car with the engine still in place is crazier than I am. #2508ís engine had two snapped off studs (one in the car, one on the ground). I was easily able to drill them out and salvage original threads in the aluminum (and no Dave Swingle, I didnít drill too deep Ė I think thatís only a problem when working upside down).
Slightly off topic, but #2508 has Heninger torsion units now. If you remove the T panel and throw the door all the way over you can install them by yourself with just a simple hand held allen wrench (you only need the wrench to line up the bolt holes). I bought a pair of torsion units for #5939 but havenít had a chance to install them yet.
Speaking of Byrne: Last October I drove down to his house and got a DeLorean running the same day that hadnít even started for more than a decade (had to vacuum mice nests out of the intake ports). Carburetion may not be perfect, but it definitely is the fastest and easiest way to resuscitate a car thatís been sitting.
Anyway, that's progress thus far.