Results 1 to 10 of 10

Thread: Aftermarket Wheel colors

  1. #1

    Aftermarket Wheel colors

    I tend not to want the chrome look.
    That leaves me with wheels that have

    Hyper Silver
    Machined
    Gunmetal

    Which is closest to stainless steel and why would you pick one of the above?
    I suppose there may be other silvers, but the three above seem to me the most common.

    Thanks all.
    :Ross

  2. #2

  3. #3
    KJET_SUX FABombjoy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Lansing, MI
    VIN
    10270
    Posts
    474
    I like the machined look but the machined wheels I've seen all have had visible corrosion.

    There are so many powdercoat options these days - I would look to see what's in your area. There is a shop local to me that will blast, fix minor rash, and powerdercoat for around $200-300 for a set. The work is beautiful and long lasting.
    -Luke / 10270 / Superman 3 Turbo Kit

  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by FABombjoy View Post
    I like the machined look but the machined wheels I've seen all have had visible corrosion.

    There are so many powdercoat options these days - I would look to see what's in your area. There is a shop local to me that will blast, fix minor rash, and powerdercoat for around $200-300 for a set. The work is beautiful and long lasting.

    No kidding, so like white, chalky aluminum corrosion?

  5. #5
    KJET_SUX FABombjoy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Lansing, MI
    VIN
    10270
    Posts
    474
    Quote Originally Posted by Boglin View Post
    No kidding, so like white, chalky aluminum corrosion?
    Yep, exactly. I didn't examine closely to see if that was from clearcoating but that's my guess.

    I'm thinking that the machine process creates very hard edges that are difficult to clearcoat effectively. Like you get a really thin coating at the edge that's easy to damage, especially by brake dust, then water creeps in and chalk city grows. Me not know enough about paint.

    Wonder if a clear powdercoat instead would hold up better.
    -Luke / 10270 / Superman 3 Turbo Kit

  6. #6
    Senior Member cat's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Chicago
    VIN
    02483
    Posts
    120
    I really like the look of black powder coat with the machine work on all the top surfaces. There is a guy who has that in the local club. He said there was a clear coat on top. I did not notice any corrosion but did not look super hard for it either. He has had them like that for some years now. He said a local shop did all the work for him. I will try to get more details when I see him again.

  7. #7
    KJET_SUX FABombjoy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Lansing, MI
    VIN
    10270
    Posts
    474
    I could see that holding up well. The powercoat builds up the wheel thickness. Then machine the face down. This puts your hard edge on the coating and not the aluminum. Under those circumstances I would expect a clearcoat to adhere better.
    -Luke / 10270 / Superman 3 Turbo Kit

  8. #8
    Having the early "dark" wheels, if I were to go aftermarket, gunmetal would be the closest match to that, and furthest from matching the stainless. The early dark wheels matched the front and rear fascias, later light wheels matched the stainless.

  9. #9
    I just just just don't like the dark wheels. So no gunmetal. I think hypersilver will be closest to giving me a shine without looking like chrome, which is too bright for me. Thanks all!

  10. #10
    Member Gary's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    Location
    Battle Ground WA
    VIN
    04018
    Posts
    36
    Try Eastwood's argent silver.

    http://www.eastwood.com/ew-rally-whe...sol-12-oz.html

    Good stuff. Really looks nice. Paint covers fast, builds up, and dries pretty quickly. Lots of prep work though, sanding all of those turbine spokes.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •