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Thread: Rich's Resto: VIN 4728

  1. #21
    When the metal is pitted the flap wheel wont get all of the way in there so the acid ensures 100% removal and provides a little etching action.

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by MattDavid View Post
    When the metal is pitted the flap wheel wont get all of the way in there so the acid ensures 100% removal and provides a little etching action.
    Sounds good, I'll definitely use it.

  3. #23
    Concentration: about 45% phosphoric acid: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Klean-Str...0220/100406369

    Coca Cola is less than .1% phosphoric acid. That is why it's only marginally effective as a rust remover.

    Vinegar is 3%-5% acetic acid, which is why it works better than Coke as a rust remover.

    Principle:



    Bill Robertson
    #5939

  4. #24
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    I have both valve covers off today, ready to do a valve adjustment....what's the preferred choice of replacement valve cover gaskets to use?

    I also noticed a few things I have questions about:

    What is this connector (with the torn boot,) and does it connect to the thing below the top hose? It appears to belong there and it fits.

    100_3850.jpg


    This crappy-looking connector leads to the distributor...what is it, and what's the best replacement part to use?

    100_3853.jpg 100_3854.jpg 100_3856.jpg

  5. #25
    As seen on TV! Dracula's Avatar
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    The one on the water pump is for the thermotime switch; useless with a carburetor.

    I'll check on the second one for you.
    -Chad K.
    Previous owner of VINS: 6982, 1601, 1265, and 1269

    Dammit, Jim. I'm an undertaker, not a mechanic.

  6. #26
    As seen on TV! Dracula's Avatar
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    OK. The distributor wire runs into the ignition control module and can be replaced with any connector that you prefer.

    Mine's got a weird splice in it that I'm going to solder and fix once I find my soldering iron.
    -Chad K.
    Previous owner of VINS: 6982, 1601, 1265, and 1269

    Dammit, Jim. I'm an undertaker, not a mechanic.

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dracula View Post
    OK. The distributor wire runs into the ignition control module and can be replaced with any connector that you prefer.

    Mine's got a weird splice in it that I'm going to solder and fix once I find my soldering iron.
    Thanks, I'll definitely be addressing it asap...

  8. #28
    The distributor pickup wire is kind of important (as in: the engine won't run without it). Note that it's really two conductors in one -- they use the outer braid as one of the conductors (outbound IIRC). You can replace the shielded wire with two normal wires if you want (normal cars use normal wires), but you definitely need two of them. If you use two wires, these are the ECU terminals you will tie them into:

    DistributorPickupWires.jpg

    IIRC, TTS port is M18x1. It's a pretty common oil pan size if you want to simply plug it. I bought one at Autozone but it had a gigantic hex head that didn't look good IMHO, so I bought a low profile socket head off Amazon.

    Bill Robertson
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  9. #29
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    Thanks, the car runs but that connector is in pretty bad shape. I'll probably reuse the wire & just replace the connector.

    Tonite I adjusted the valves, but that rapping noise is still there. It might be a little better, but not cured. I removed the valve cover with the engine running....it's definitely getting oil on top. If it's not a valve out of adjustment, what else can it be?

  10. #30
    Exhaust leak.

    If you replace the distributor pickup connector, don't forget that the outer braid actually carries an electrical signal (needs to be tied into one of the connector terminals, totally isolated from the other one).

    Bill Robertson
    #5939

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